Also, you want to use the shortest adapter and extension cords possible to avoid a voltage drop.
Also, while an RV with 50amp capacity can be adapted to use a 30amp cord, an RV with only 30amp capacity can never be adapted to use a 50amp cord. However, you want to keep safety in mind, especially when dealing with electricity. Once your power cord is firmly plugged in, then switch them on. Not everything you plug in will draw the same amount of electricity.
One RV, Two Electrical Systems
Some devices run quite well on very little power, while others are big draws on your available power. Most of your kitchen appliances use a lot of electricity.
Your microwave , coffee maker, and toaster are all electricity hogs. Air conditioning units also pull a lot of power, as does running a slide out. Also, bathroom devices like hair dryers and curling irons use a lot of electricity. Items like your TV and stereo, though, use considerably less power.
Regular maintenance and inspection is the easiest way to spot a small problem before it becomes a big issue. They may be saving a few dollars per night by plugging into amp service. But the continued strain on an air conditioner or microwave, especially when either struggles to start running on substandard power, might end up damaging the appliance. Help for new campers on holding tank strategies, tactics for avoiding clogged lines and correct additives.
Ready For That 1st Trip? Even an "old work" box will work here. A 30 or 50 amp outlet, though, requires some backing to the box to keep it from being pushed into the wall over time if it is mounted flush to the surface. RV plugs, as you already know, are sometimes difficult to plug in and require considerable force. If this is your choice, you will need to open up the wall and add some backing material, perhaps a 2X4, between the studs, and then mount the new box to that backing.
Any sheetrock that has been cut out can then be re-installed with an opening to match the new box. However, double-gang boxes are not designed to be flush mounted and will need an adapter—a "mud ring"—to bring the surface flush with the wall and to mount the amp outlet to.
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The other option is to mount the box on the surface of the wall— to nail or screw it through the sheetrock directly to the studding in the wall—and this is often done, particularly when a 50 amp outlet is being used. Mount the box off center from the stud so that there is room alongside the studding for a cable clamp and for the wire to enter the box. It projects out from the wall a couple of inches but that is not generally objectionable.
Flush mounting the box, inside the wall so that the surface of the box matches the wall covering, may be more difficult, particularly for the larger size outlets but it will make pulling wire to it easier as there is a large hole in the wall to "fish" the wire out of. Without that large hole that you can reach into it will be difficult to get the wire out of the wall. Mounting your new outlet outdoors presents so many options that it is impossible to discuss them all here.
Will it be flush mounted or surface? Is the mounting surface brick, cinder block, concrete, wood, vinyl or other? Will it be remote from a building, requiring the wire to be underground? There are some general considerations, though:. With the planning finished and materials purchased and on hand, it's time to install the new wire between the electrical panel and the new outlet. If you have never pulled wire before, a suggestion is an article on adding a new outlet that is a good resource to read. It isn't about adding a whole new circuit as you will be here, but it does contain a section on how to run wire.
Begin by making it possible to get the wire to the panel. In the photo below, the wall above the panel was opened just enough to make the top of the panel accessible. Begin by pushing enough wire down to the panel, with about 3' extra, to get it inside. Do not open the panel yet or put the wire inside it.
Run the wire to the new outlet location, pulling it out and free of the wall. Make sure to fasten it every 4', but do not install it on the surface of any wall within arm's reach where it can be touched or damaged. Not even a ceiling. If you have a metal box, install the cable clamp. Insert the wire into the box and tighten the cable clamp as necessary.
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Install the box into or onto the wall, making sure the wire is not kinked as you do so. Replace any sheetrock that was removed to mount the box.
Wire the new outlet. Outlets that are 30 and 50 amp have labels on the back indicating which wire goes where - see the photos below of those outlets. The 50 amp outlet shows "white", "X", "Y" and "green" in this case - the "X" and "Y" terminals refer to the two, black and red, hot wires and it doesn't make any difference which goes where. Make absolutely sure the white and ground green or without insulation go where they are supposed to. A hint for 30 and 50 amp outlets; most RV plugs are designed so that the prongs are at right angles to the core, unlike an extension cord, and with the ground prong at the top, not the bottom, when it is plugged in.
Take a look at the cord on your RV and turn the outlet so that the cord will hang down, not up, when plugged in. Install the wired outlet into the box.
Need to Know Differences Between 30 and 50 Amps | KOA Camping Blog
Install any covers, as required. Remember that a requirement for any outdoor outlet is that it has a cover that can be closed with the cord plugged in, and that it will have to match the size of your box. Amazon carries such covers , as do home improvement stores although such stores often do not carry the metal covers, just plastic ones , in both single and double gang styles.
Make sure you buy one that hinges at the top, not on the side. Now comes the only tricky part of the entire project—entering the panel box. Turn off the power! I can't emphasize this enough. If you have a main breaker in the panel, a large breaker mounted differently than the others and stamped " amps" or more, turn it off. If your panel does not have a main breaker, it means that a different panel has a breaker that feeds the one you are working in.
Need to Know Differences Between 30 and 50 Amps
Turn that breaker off, and tape it off, or in some way ensure it won't be turned on by someone else while you are working. Even with a main breaker turned off, there is still live electricity in the panel at that main breaker, though, so take extreme caution. If you touch those terminals you will receive a very nasty shock, and if you touch them with a screwdriver or other tool you will fill the air with droplets of molten metal. As an electrician I will do my best to work in panels that even might be hot with one hand in my pocket and only one hand in the panel.
Remove the panel cover and, if possible, check with a voltmeter or a non-contact voltage tester that the power is dead everywhere except the main breaker. These non-contact voltage testers are handy safety equipment and are inexpensive. There is always one in my pocket when on the job and I highly recommend them for anyone working around electricity.
Breakers in nearly all home panels are held in place by "hooking" the outside edge, the edge closest to the side of the panel, and pushing them firmly down in the center.
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